(NB: I am copying the idea for this post from one of my fellow CPx students, Julie Ostrand)
Things here in South Africa aren’t too different from the United States. People over here on the other side of the world have the same hopes and dreams, as well as many of the same brands. That’s right, we just bought us some Colgate toothpaste, Loreal styling mousse and Neutrogena hand cream — and we used our VISA to pay for it. Of course, there are a whole lot of differences in this place as well. Here are just a few of them.
1. Driving. It’s done on the left-hand side of the road. That’s caused all sorts of problems as we’ve been learning how to drive. There’s the obvious problems of staying on the correct side of the road, and especially turning into the correct lane of traffic. However, there are more subtle differences as well. I rarely remember to look in my rear-view mirror because I’m used to looking up and over to the right for that, not up and over to the left. Also, there’s the whole other side of the car that’s not on your right anymore but your left. So you have to learn to completely rejudge the boundaries of the car. We’ve hit some curbs along the way. Oh, and the blinker (which is called a flicker here) is on the right hand side of the steering wheel instead of the left. So we keep turning the windshield wipers on instead of the blinker, I mean flicker.
2. Crime. It’s pretty bad here. Lots of scams, pickpockets and muggings. Also on the more serious side, a lot of murders and rapes. So we keep a close eye on our possessions when we’re out and about. We don’t walk anywhere alone during the day and only in large groups (at least seven or eight people) after dark. This really changes some of our lifestyle, especially as we haven’t had a car these first few weeks. Also, most communities (that aren’t impoverished) have gates around their neighborhoods and/or high fences with barbed wire on top to keep burglars out. Almost every home has “Chubb Armed Response” plaques on the front to warn criminals away. Neighborhoods are guarded by one of several private security companies that monitor house alarms and drive through the streets to deter crime.
3. Pre-paid everything. Did you know that the pre-paid system of cell phone payment was actually created in South Africa? (This was told to me by our used car salesman, so I’m sure it’s true.) People didn’t have enough money or any credit, but they still needed cell phones, so South African cellular companies created the pre-paid system. It’s modeled after the pre-paid system for electricity. You don’t have a bill each month, instead you purchase chunks of new electricity as you need it. Our Internet also is pre-paid, which brings us to…
4. Internet. It’s not unlimited! I took unlimited bandwidth in the States so much for granted that I didn’t even realize it was unlimited. Now we have limits. You don’t pay a flat rate per month, instead you pay per gig of bandwidth that you use. And it’s expensive. We figured out that to download and watch a one-hour episode of Lost online it would cost us about $70. Not. Worth. It. So we limit our picture and video upload and download big time.
5. Accents. South Africans use soft A sounds, like the A in tall rather than the A in rat. They also pronounce their Ts, where Americans basically soften them so they sound like Ds. Also, the Rs are much softer at the end of words. An examble: water bottle:
American: Wader boddle
South African: Watta bottle
6. Languages. Yes, English is a very commonly spoken language in South Africa, but there are actually 11 official languages. So everyone knows at least two. Makes me feel inferior when I meet people who know as many as six or seven.
7. No central heat and air. This is a big one, with many repercussions. It means that we thrive on dressing appropriately for the weather, as well as having our fan on all the time (as it’s summer now). Everyone also keeps the windows and doors open in most locations, which means that bugs and especially flies become a common indoor pest.
8. Tips. Every time I go out to eat I feel like a stingy tipper. But the standard for restaurant gratuity is 10 percent. However, there are people you tip here whose jobs don’t even exist in the U.S. Parking attendants, for one. In any parking lot (say, at a mall), there will be a number of men standing around with yellow reflective vests. These guys occasionally point out an open spot or stop traffic coming the other way so you can pull into a spot. Very helpful. You must tip these workers. There are two reasons for this: 1) this could be this person’s only income to feed their family and 2) you want to make sure your car is there when you get back and no one’s broken in to get your stuff. Another person you’re supposed to tip here is the guy who puts gas (called “petrol” here) in your vehicle. There are no self-service pumps, only attendants.
9. Pharmacies. They operate very differently. If you want an over-the-counter medication, it actually has to come over the counter. In Oklahoma, the only OTC drugs that you have to ask the pharmacist for are allergy meds that people could use to make methamphetamines. If you want Advil Cold and Sinus in Oklahoma, you’re going to have to give them an ID, and your contact information. In South Africa, there are far more over-the-counter medications that you have to go through these hoops for. Brandon and I tried to get one at our local pharmacy, Clicks, this week. In the states, there are a billion varieties of these OTC drugs lining regular shelves. In South Africa, we asked around for them and were directed to the “Dispensary.” One side of the pharmacy counter was for prescriptions and another for OTC meds. In order to get our drugs, we had to give my birth date, address and phone number. The pharmacist put our purchase in a bag and put a printed label on it telling the price. Then — here’s the kicker — she placed it inside a metal cage and handed it to us. So we carried our meds to the front counter to pay for them, all the while holding the handle to a square silver cage. They did remove it from the cage after we paid for it, but still — major TIA (This is Africa) moment!
10. Coffee. Although Africa is known for it’s superb coffees, people in South Africa actually predominantly drink instant coffee. It’s just part of the culture. And the instant coffee we have here at Africa House is the cheapie stuff, called Ricoffee (reminds me of someone yodeling over the Alps). Fortunately, it’s not the only thing drunk here. The grocery store, Pick n Pay, stocks an adequate selection of ground coffee as well. French presses are available in most shops, although they’re more expensive here. I planned ahead for this, however, and my Clever Coffee Dripper and Starbucks VIA packets have proved useful. One thing I haven’t been able to access here is half and half. That’s the only thing I ever put in my coffee in the States. But I literally cannot find it anywhere here. I tried to explain it to my South African friends (which, by the way, is actually very hard since I don’t know how they make the stuff) and they had no idea what I was talking about. I tried getting cream at the store and mixing it with milk, and that was a no-go. The cream here is yellow and thick and doesn’t dissolve in the coffee. So I’ve switched to whole milk. It’s better for me any way. (Just not as creamy.)
11. Service at restaurants. We are spoiled in America, people! The service is so slow here. And it’s not any one waiter or waitress, it’s all of them. It leads me to think that it’s not that they are lazy, it’s just that there’s a culture of slow service. Brandon orders bottomless lemonade at Mug and Bean (one of the few free-refill items in South Africa) and he has to flag down the waiter and beg for another refill. They don’t come check on you every five minutes and hand you your check as soon as you’re done. We’ve had to ask for our check every time. It’s just a different mind set.
12. Robots. They’re traffic lights, not animated machines that eventually overpower their creators and take over the world. It’s pretty strange to see big signs on the road that say “ROBOTS AHEAD.”
Anything else you’d like to know about?